As our train rolled back into Bari Centrale from Bitonto, the shift in atmosphere was palpable. The tranquil charm of the hilltop town gave way to the bustling energy of this lively seaport city. Walking from the station to Bari’s historic center takes about twenty to thirty minutes, depending on how leisurely one chooses to stroll. Every few steps, I found myself pausing to photograph yet another striking building.
One standout was the Palazzo Mincuzzi, a 1920s department store that instantly captured my attention. Its eclectic facade seems to blend art nouveau influences with a touch of baroque, and the intricate details in its columns and windows were mesmerizing. For a fleeting moment, I could have sworn I was in Paris.
The contrast between the grandeur of Bari’s main promenade and the ancient character of its historic center is breathtaking. It’s the kind of juxtaposition that leaves you momentarily suspended between awe and silence.
Gelateria Gentile
Once we wove our way into the historic quarter, our first mission was clear: snacks. Our hunt led us to the renowned Gelateria Gentile, where we sampled velvety gelato and a delightfully messy sporcamuss. This typical Pugliese dessert—a puff pastry stuffed with cream and dusted with powdered sugar—lives up to its name, which loosely translates to “messy mouth.” It’s as delicious as it is impossible to eat neatly.
For gelato, I chose two flavors: fior di latte al riso (milk cream made from rice milk) and fragola (strawberry). The rice milk gelato surprised me—it was rich, flavorful, and boasted an impeccable texture.
Basilica Pontificia Di San Nicola
Our next stop was the Basilica Pontificia di San Nicola, a must-see for Nick, given the church’s dedication to his patron saint. Inside, the gilded ceilings contrasted beautifully with the grey stone arches, creating a serene, almost ethereal ambiance.
Edible Souvenirs
On this trip to Puglia, we had no rigid itinerary—just a desire to follow our instincts and a few recommendations from friends. Bari was no exception. We wandered through its labyrinthine streets, ducking into small shops, passing trendy microbreweries (which seem to be having a moment in Italy), and admiring the locals as they hung their laundry.
One turn brought us to a nonna selling handmade orecchiette from a rogue setup on the street. A Russian couple was struggling to communicate with her, so I stepped in to help them purchase their 500 grams of pasta. Naturally, I couldn’t resist buying a bag for myself, spending the last of my cash on this charming, edible souvenir.
La Cantina Dello Zio
For dinner, we stopped at La Cantina dello Zio and ordered a plate of orecchiette con le cime di rapa and a generous serving of fresh mussels (for Nick). Cime di rapa—also known as broccoli rabe or rapini—has a bitterness that I can never quite warm up to, whether it’s on pizza or pasta.
Nonnas, Hard At Work
Before leaving Bari, I had one last item on my list: seeing the legendary nonnas making orecchiette by the bushel. Their speed and precision are astounding. While I was too shy to snap a close-up photo or video, I was content to simply observe. Some things are best appreciated in the moment, unmediated by a lens.
With my bag of orecchiette and the late afternoon sun casting golden light over Bari’s streets, we headed back to Polignano a Mare. It was time to pack for the journey home, carrying memories of flavors, textures, and the magic of spontaneous discoveries.
A presto,
Aleksandra
