Val Di Fassa: something for everyone
As soon as we arrived in the Dolomites, it dawned on me very quickly that there is something for everyone here. As long as you have the slightest interest in fresh air and beautiful vistas, you’re guaranteed to have a delightful week.
Once we settled in it was time to decide how we wanted to spend our week. Canazei is located in Val Di Fassa, a beautiful valley with a plethora of options for hiking, relaxation, local activities and, of course, food.
Our B&B provided several pamphlets with information about the Val Di Fassa Region, along with several personal suggestions. From the Val Di Fassa Guest Card pamphlet we learned about several exciting opportunities to connect with the locals and relax in the surrounding nature.
The Val Di Fassa website is also a fabulous resource to have on hand during your trip and for research prior to your trip
The Panorama Pass
I highly encourage you to purchase the Panorama Pass which allows you to access the majority of the gondolas (funivia in Italian) in the area for a select number of days (you choose how many upon purchase). The Panorama Pass gives you access to amazing peaks, views, valleys and opportunities during your stay in Val Di Fassa. The gondola system also makes the mountain tops surprisingly accessible, although you do need to carefully check the distances between two gondola points. They can be farther apart than you anticipate, meaning that there could be a small (or large) hike to reach particular gondolas to continue your journey. You should also pay attention to any gondola closures and hours of operation. Even the gondola operators practice L’Arte Di Rallentare and take a nice 2 hour lunch break.
We used the gondolas on both lazy days and hiking days. Whether we simply wanted to get up to a high point for some good views or we wanted to also hike around, the gondolas were there to make that happen! We were able to get to Sass Pordoi in about an hour and half from Canazei through a combination of gondolas and hiking.
Sass Pordoi has a stunning landscape that makes you feel as if you’re on Mars. We visited twice during our week. Once during a very cold, windy and foggy day, the second on a bright and sunny day. Both times time we went up to Sass Pordoi (and yes, you can also hike up there, but it is very steep) was a breath taking experience. The first time was on a cloudy, gloomy day and the mountain top seemed stuck in a cloud, creating a very spooky, but mystical effect as you could only see 5 feet in front of you clearly. It reminded me a lot of a Soviet Era cartoon that my mom loves called, Ёжик в тумане (Hedgehog in the Fog).
The second time we went up to Sass Pordoi was on a bright and clear day that exposed the summit’s martian landscape. There is also a refugio at the summit’s pick-up/drop off point for the gondolas. A rifugio is the equivalent of a bar or restaurant typically found in mountainous regions to provide “refuge” for weary hikers.
QC Terme: dolomiti
A day at the QC Terme Dolomiti is guaranteed to make you feel incredibly relaxed. The location of the spa itself is absolutely stunning, with spectacular views of the surrounding mountains, a quaint town and beautiful fields with wildlife running through. The weather added to the magic of the day as we relaxed in one of the dry saunas and watched the rain pour down outside. This also created a scenic cold plunge opportunity as I was able to heat up and meditate in the dry sauna and then enjoy the cold of the rain while I submerged myself in a cold plunge in the icy cold pool (that looks like a greek fountain) outside.
Shortly after we relaxed in the variety of other pools available while the sun shone down on the meadows and forests and twinkled playfully on the water. My mom and I are avid sauna and spa lovers (it might possibly run in our blood seeing that we’re Russian), so we were delighted to find that QC Terme had so much to offer in terms of dry sauna, wet sauna, cold exposure, and a variety of “water rooms” and indoor and outdoor pools.If you need a break from the heat, there are also a variety of “relaxation rooms” to enjoy and take a breather in.
Upon arrival at the spa they provide you with a robe and pair of flip flops to wear throughout the day. And thankfully, you don’t have to wear any sort of swim cap like some spas in Europe require. Although, I may wrap my hair up next time since it’s sensitive to chlorine. Another suggestion would be to bring some sort of simple waterproof baggie to carry your phone in. A small Stasher bag, or one of those waterproof phone crossbodies would be perfect, as you can hang it up discreetly with your robe when you’re about to enter a pool. Also, you could simply not bring your phone with you, but honestly the views were so beautiful that I was already dying at the fact that I didn’t have my camera with me (but that would just be nuts).
In the afternoon we enjoyed a simple aperitivo while the sun poked out from behind the clouds. Note: expect a line while you’re waiting to get your aperitivo, it moves quickly enough when they start letting in the next phase of people. I’m not sure what the lunch option is like if you choose to spend the whole day, but someday soon I’m sure I’ll be able to report back on that. After spending the greater part of the afternoon bouncing between pools and saunas my mom and I finally decided it was time to head back to Canazei for dinner. We had only purchased a 5-hour pass, but we did wish that we had decided to spend the day since there were so many things to try. QC Terme has several locations throughout Italy (and a new location in NYC) so we’re looking forward to trying out some of the other locations, which gives us an additional reason to explore other parts of this beautiful country.
Forest Bathing
Going into this experience I had no idea what to expect but it was a delightful introduction to the world of Forest Bathing, a form of meditation that I never knew about prior but one that resonated deeply with me. In short, Forest Bathing is a Japanese form of meditation in nature that emphasizes “a total immersion in the forest atmosphere”. We found out about this experience through one of the Val Di Fassa pamphlets.
With the guidance of Katiuscia, an Italian woman from the area, my mom and I embarked on our 3 hour forest group meditation. The first exercise began on our walk to the part of the forest where we would begin the experience. During the walk we made were encouraged to activate the 5 senses by taking notice of the light on the leaves, the smell of the fresh air mingling with the scent of a freshly chopped tree nearby, the feeling of the hard rocks under my hiking boots, noticing how the texture of the ground changed, tasting the cool air and feeling the breeze on my skin.
Upon entering the forest through a “portal” we were encouraged to leave all expectations behind and bring an open mind to the practice (something I am trying to practice more in my daily life). We each chose a comfortable seat on the ground, for me a soft piece of moss (with hopefully no spiders lurking) and were encouraged to deeply observe the ground surrounding us. Noticing the vast variety of plants, of shapes, of textures, of shades of green.
Over the next two hours we were guided through several meditations and exercises in introspection and observation of ourselves and our surroundings. For me it was a tranquil invitation to ground myself and my thoughts in the surrounding greenery. A very interesting fact that I learned was that human vision is best adapted to the color green. Meaning that out of all the colors in the rainbow, we can see green the easiest. This is partly because green is in the center of the color spectrum, but also due to evolution. Our ancestors developed a high sensitivity to the color green to help safely choose food sources. Green has always been my favorite color so it was really interesting to me to also learn that it’s the color that we’re best adapted to seeing. So, to spend time in the forest is also to allow yourself to immerse in the greenery and explore all the tints and shades of the color.
There are numerous health benefits of forest bathing, but my top 3 reasons to make forest bathing a more regular practice are to lower stress, improve energy, and improve concentration and memory. If you’re interested in learning more about the benefits of Forest Bathing and where you can find a guide to show you the ropes I suggest you check out the following resources:
Other Notable Experiences in Val Di Fassa:
- All the hiking, of course
- Walks along the river in both directions
- Horseback riding tours
- Exploring Canazei and any events that may be happening, such as impromptu concerts in the downtown area!
- Mountain biking for the adrenaline junkies!
- Just taking a scenic drive
Dining In Val Di Fassa
1. Perlage
We had some unexpectedly good food during our stay in Val di Fassa. Not that we were expecting to eat poorly, but more so that we didn’t expect to stumble upon what should be a Michelin star restaurant nestled away in a boutique hotel on the road from Canazei to Alba-Penia. Welcome to Perlage, a stunningly designed restaurant that feels sophisticated and elevated yet also cozy and warm, a reflection of the mountains surrounding it. Perlage was such a delicious and delightful restaurant that we actually ended up eating here twice. We just couldn’t stay away. Not only was the food spectacular and innovative, but the environment, presentation and customer service were all top notch.
My mom was absolutely enamored by the restaurant and took to Google to express her love for our experiences there. I’ve decided to include her review here since I think she summed it all up beautifully!
“Absolutely amazing 🤩 from appetizers to the desserts – creativity on steroids! Chef Allesandro Iori is a true culinary artist. Quality and presentation 👍We came twice and tried almost everything on the menu – no regrets. The restaurant itself is very chic with 2 different color schemes that compliment each other. And we loved the music 🎶 In my humble opinion – this restaurant is on par with (or dare I say even more impressive than) a 3 star Michelin restaurant I’ve dined at.”
2. Rifugio Col Rodella
After exploring scenic gondola routes we eventually ended up at Col Rodella, a pass underneath the looming points of Sasso Piatto (2956 meters/9698 feet), Forcella Sasso Lungo (2522 meters/8274 feet) and Sassolungo (3181 mt/10436 feet). We were starting to feel a bit peckish and ready for our afternoon coffee so we made our way towards the signs leading us to Rifugio Col Rodella.
It’s hard to express what it’s like to eat at a restaurant with a stunning 360 degree panoramic view of mountain tops. Photos don’t quite capture the experience either, so I’ll try my best with words. The little trek up to this rifugio is not for the faint of heart. It is very steep and makes you seriously question your athletic capabilities. Granted, being at an already high elevation is strenuous enough (especially for someone who lives at sea-level), but I genuinely struggled to get up the path. Thankfully the destination was absolutely worth the journey. The rifugio has a rooftop terrace with a stunning 360 degree vista. Even though the wind was quite strong, it was hard to pull myself away from the view and make sure to check out the menu. We ordered a simple but delicious lunch. We tried the canederli in brodo (a kind of regional meatball) and some coleslaw. Afterwords we enjoyed our coffee while soaking in the views. This is absolutely worth trying if you’re up for the uphill trek. (If you want to use the bathroom, be warned!! It’s (what I like to call) a “squatty potty”. I’ll let you discover for yourself).
3. Ristorante Tobia de Zeli
Between Canazei and Alba-Penia flows the Avisio River (Fiume Avisio). Along its banks you’ll find a beautiful road/bike path/trail that leads you past Ristorante Tobia de Zeli. This beautiful lodge-like building that’s nestled into the mountainside and its outdoor garden is a fabulous place to enjoy an aperitivo as well as lunch or dinner. Our first meal here I enjoyed a delicious gnocchi in a creamy sauce, unfortunately I didn’t take note of the name but I’ve provided a photo below. The second time we enjoyed some lighter fair by trying two of their salads, one of which included those delicious canederli.
4. La Cantinetta
This restaurant was recommended to us by the hosts of our Bed & Breakfast. This restaurant actually really impressed me and had some delicious pasta dishes that totally hit the spot after a long day of hiking and exploring. La Cantinetta is open all day, not only during the lunch or dinner hours which also makes it quite convenient since one doesn’t always stick to a normal eating schedule when on a trip. We enjoyed the Spatzle di Spinaci al Buro Fuso e Grana (an example of the German culture infused here) and the Garganelli Imperatore (my favorite). This extra restaurant option was great to have in the back pocket to know that we’d have a delightful lunch or dinner if we couldn’t try somewhere else.
Canazei is a pretty small but dense town and most of the other restaurants that we were recommended to try were quite small and thus were booked out and we couldn’t snag tables. So, keep in mind to call ahead maybe a day or two in advance if possible!
Un abbraccio,
Aleksandra
