Our last morning in Polignano a Mare began with the familiar ritual of packing bags and tidying up our Airbnb. Before heading to the train station, we indulged in one final breakfast. I was craving another panzerotto, so we stopped at Frumé, a pinseria we had been eyeing. Nick, on the other hand, was in the mood for a coffee and a pasticciotto, prompting a second pit stop before we set off.
As the local train pulled away, olive trees zipped by, and the sparkling sea spread out beyond the windows. We switched trains in Bari with minimal drama this time—or so we thought. Once aboard, we discovered our seats were occupied. Politely showing our tickets to the women sitting there, we tried to untangle the confusion. While waiting for the conductor to help us figure out the situation, Nick suddenly gasped. I turned to see him smiling sheepishly while showing me our tickets on his phone, and it hit me—we had booked this exact train, but for the next day.The women laughed with us as we explained our mistake. When the conductor arrived, he kindly confirmed there was no way to modify our tickets since this train was fully booked, but we could try the following train. With about 30 minutes until the next stop, we asked for time to decide what to do.
While Nick texted his boss to ask for an extra day off, I searched for last-minute accommodations. Barletta, the train’s next stop, offered a cozy bed and breakfast in its historic center for only €50. The decision was clear: extend the vacation and explore a new town!
Discovering Barletta
Barletta greeted us with calm, quiet streets as we made our way to the historic center. The town is nestled by the sea, with views of the Gargano Peninsula in the distance and a rich history embedded in its architecture. As we approached our bed and breakfast, Duomo Guesthouse, the charming mix of old stone buildings, greenery, and flowers quickly won us over.
Duomo Guesthouse was aptly named—it stood directly across from the town’s stunning duomo. Our host, Michele, welcomed us warmly and even upgraded our room. The guesthouse, located on the top floor of a historic convent (one of Barletta’s oldest buildings), was beautifully renovated, putting any ghostly worries I had to rest. Michele was brimming with pride for his city, eagerly sharing tips for how to make the most of our brief stay.
After settling in, we took our sandwiches and taralli from the train ride to a nearby beach. The day was chillier than expected, and the beaches here lacked the pristine allure of Polignano a Mare or Monopoli. Still, we enjoyed a simple seaside lunch before setting off to uncover Barletta’s hidden gems.
A City of Stories and Surprises
We wandered through narrow streets, eventually arriving at the Castello Svevo di Barletta. Surrounded by a garden filled with bird of paradise flowers and WWI-era cannons, the fortress had an intriguing, almost optical illusion-like design. Entrance was free that day, so we walked along the battlements, imagining what it must have been like to defend this medieval city.
Next, we stumbled upon La Cantina della Sfida (“The Inn of the Challenge”), a museum commemorating a 1503 duel between thirteen Italian and thirteen French cavalry. The Italians emerged victorious, and the story remains a point of pride for the town. Outside, a marble monument celebrates this historic event, a subtle jab at the French, who started the fight.
As evening approached, Barletta’s quiet streets came alive. Families filled Corso Vittorio Emanuele, a vibrant thoroughfare lined with buildings painted in gelato-inspired hues—deep fragola pinks and soft lemon yellows. Children dashed through the streets while parents chatted, occasionally fielding pleas for pre-dinner gelato.
Osteria Al Duomo
After escaping the crowds, we found a cozy spot for dinner at Osteria del Duomo. Nick indulged in mussels and rice, while I opted for fresh orecchiette in tomato sauce. Topping off the meal with a light dessert, we strolled along the beach, where the nightlife surprised us. Beach clubs buzzed with fashionable Italians dancing to lively music that followed us down the boardwalk.
As the night grew chilly, we returned to the duomo and joined the locals, people-watching in the bustling streets before calling it a night.
A Sweet Sendoff
The next morning, we enjoyed a complimentary breakfast at Caffè Con Vista, a charming café behind the duomo. I had one of the best cornetti I’ve ever tasted in Italy—a bold statement, I know. With time to spare before our (actual) train, we explored Barletta’s quieter beaches and grabbed focaccia from Panificio La Disfida for the journey.
Barletta turned out to be an unexpected gift. It reminded me that even when a place becomes home, like Florence has for us, the urge to escape and explore something new never really fades.
A la prossima,
Aleksandra
